Today we turn our attention to a unique grape variety from western Valencia, the Tardana. It is a variety that deserves our full attention, carrying within it the history, character and flavours of the Mediterranean terroir, alongside a touch of modernity that increasingly attracts natural wine enthusiasts.
The Tardana, also known as Planta Nova or Tortozón, began as a table grape. It has been cultivated in the Requena region for centuries. It is also found in the Vall d'Albaida, where Cris Vanyó of Cos a Cos is one of its finest advocates. What distinguishes it is its late ripening, which is precisely why it is called Tardana! This grape is harvested much later than others, sometimes into December, once it has had time to absorb the sun and concentrate its aromas. The result is natural acidity and concentrated aromas that deliver a unique freshness, even under an intense climate.
The Tardana is a thick-skinned, robust variety capable of withstanding Mediterranean summers. The bunches are fairly large, cylindrical and compact with one or two wings; the berries are medium-sized, spherical or slightly ellipsoidal. Most interestingly, the Tardana can be worked in several ways. Those seeking pure, direct flavours often vinify it in stainless steel tanks to preserve its freshness. But some estates choose to macerate it, producing an orange wine, which gives it a richer, more complex dimension. Winemakers such as Mariano of Cueva, Verónica Romero, Pigar and Escuadra have mastered this art, offering a Tardana of great depth without sacrificing the grape's vibrancy.
A Tardana vinified in the classic style, meaning direct pressing or as free-run juice like the Romano from Sexto Elemento, offers notes of white fruit such as pear and green apple, accompanied by citrus and white flowers. In a macerated version, this profile becomes more complex, with texture and aromas of tea, dried fruit and a delicate tannic presence. It is a wine that combines freshness and depth, best drunk young. It can also be sensitive to oxidation, so it is best consumed quickly once the bottle is opened.
The winegrowers we support are committed to natural viticulture and work the Tardana with full respect for its character. The harvests are a testament to the terroir, and each winemaker has their own way of drawing out the grape's qualities.